The Maasai of Lake Natron

Lake Natron is a place in Northern Tanzania, populated by the Maasai tribe. The area is one of outstanding natural beauty: The Great Rift Valley passes through the area and the sodium lake is home to flocks of the magnificent flamingo.It's also home to the active volcano Oldonyo Langai. The land is very arid and vast, what one may envision the Tanzanian planes to look like.

I had the chance to visit this unique place a few times and not as a typical tourist, the few times I went I had the chance to stay for extended periods and I got to absorb the wonderful scenery , partake in tourist excursions such as visits to the waterfall and to the lake. Yet I was also welcomed into the community and spent time with the locals, sharing with them parts of their daily lives.

Faces

I will never forget going down to the river to swim (be taken down stream!) in next to nothing with the young girls of the village. Sitting with the women chatting, playing, making beaded jewellery, singing, drinking chai (Tea: the Maasai's chai is especially unique as it's made with goats milk is very sweet and strong) spending time in the boma (maasai village) at night with families, watching the stars and seeing the children practice the dances and songs that they will perform once they become moran (warriors).

My maasai tattoo/brand

The stages of a Maasai man's life is very complex, hierarchical and ritualistic. Once every five years a mass circumcision takes place in Maasai communities with boys of a certain age. This process is not simply about circumcision, this is only one of the final stages and is performed by an elder of the community with a knife. It is said that if the young warrior winces albeit cries he will not have successfully completed his transformation into adulthood warrior status. Prior to the circumcision the young moran spends a few months in the 'bush' together, away from the rest of the tribe. This time is supposed to be spent hardening them up for life as a warrior and proving themselves as so. In this period the boys wear black clothing, distinctly contrasted to the reds and blues the Maasai are usually seen wearing. They also wear black face paint with white markings. After circumcision the young warriors hair is died red and they maintain restricted social circles.

I was privileged enough to be in Tanzania in the year these processes were happening. It was not uncommon to see young warriors on road sides dressed in black, feathers in hair, on looking fearsomely. On one visit to Lake Natron there were a couple circumcision ceremonies taking place. I attended one of these, not the actual act of course! Let's call it the 'after party', these events are the most important occasions to the Maasai, along with weddings. Therefore the celebrations afterwards continue for the day and sometimes longer. This experience was one I can never forget and is quite simply indescribable. The imagery and sounds are what resonate most at such an event and luckily the community let me witness and record the event. 

The Celebrations

If you visit Tanzania, this is a spot that shouldn't be overlooked. It is often missed due to it's location but it offers a unique insight into the lives of a people who have managed to retain their culture in the face of globalisation.